ABOVE If this place could talk. A farmhouse at Uttak-leiv stands the test of time and weather deep within the Arctic Circle. Lodge in Kabelvåg. OPPOSITE, LEFT TO RIGHT Fishing past meets tourism future. The remnants of fishing rope hang outside of the Lofoten Ski Well after 8 p.m., Chad Sayers heads toward the fjord off the top of Store Kvittind, and the promise of a hearty dinner in town. SETH HOBBY has lived more than his fair share of Lofoten magic. The mountain guide grew up near Seattle, developing a climbing addiction he would ultimately pursue around the world. After an expedition to Nepal, he went to Thailand, where he met Maren Eek Bistrup, a charismatic Norwegian. Hobby followed his heart (and Eek Bistrup) to Norway in 2007. After a few years in the south, the couple got married and decided to move to the Lofoten Islands, where they landed in Kabelvåg, a small fishing village with less than 2,000 year-round inhabitants. Shortly after, they realized there was a demand for guided ski touring and a lack of local guides in the area. They started North-ern Alpine Guides in 2012, and the company has been growing ever since. They employ 10 to 12 guides during the three-month ski season and own and operate Lofoten Ski Lodge, offering guided ski-and-stay packages through Nyvågar Rorburhotel, a cozy lodge right by the sea on the outskirts of Kabelvåg. Lofoten Ski Lodge represents the international appeal of this rural paradise. Half the guide crew is American, and most of the other guides are foreigners too. Same with the guests. The reputation of ski touring here has spread far beyond Lofoten’s frozen shores. When I arrived here more than 10 years ago, I remember meeting the odd foreign ski-touring crew, but they were few and far between. Lofoten was different back then; less busy but also less accessible and not so tourist-friendly. I am sure some locals are not always happy with the progression and, of course, like in any popular tourist destination, it can be frustrating during the high season. Hobby has been a part of that transition, a foreigner who has made this place home. I can see why Hobby found his way here. I can also see why he never left. There are so many mountains to choose from and so much nature to explore between so few people, making the rush to be anywhere almost nonexistent. Much of the time it’s not the crowds, but the weather itself that makes the final call in these climes. After our successful ski off Store Kvittind, a light rain and low clouds have us thinking about everything but skiing. But they so often are in the islands, winter squalls are on the horizon. Generations of Lofoten inhabit-ants have learned to live and thrive in this ebb and flow, a way of life that requires time and commitment, but more often than not rewards patience. We settle in, happy to ride out the storm. 050 The Ski Journal
The Ski Journal Volume 16, Issue 1: Page 50
