TOP TO BOTTOM Look closely to find Hadley Hammer and Pete Mühlburger making their final turns before reaching the Kemater Alm hut for afternoon Kaiserschmar-rn—a fluffy, pancake-like Austrian dessert made simply with flour, eggs, sugar, salt and milk. Gavin Hess tours next to wol-verine tracks in the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness, MT. We never saw the alpine predator, but its presence was all around us. 089